Jonathan Norris, Fishmonger of Pimlico
Saturday, 21 November 2009
Address: Tachbrook Street Market, SW1V 2JS
Telephone: 0779-907-3060
Strolling through our local market on Tachbrook Street, SW1 we noticed that our favourite fishmonger Jonathan Norris had on display (and what a display) megrim, witch and dover sole as well as the usual cod, haddock, plaice and hake for sale at a extremely affordable prices he also had skate wings (blooming big ones), whiting, Pollock and even sturgeon as well as other fish and shellfish that you don’t normally see on a market stall and furthermore more or less all that I noticed was caught from around the UK’s own shores with Scotland and Cornwall dominant.
I am impressed at the way Jon has developed this small concern through supplying fish and seafood that you don’t as a rule see except in the significantly more expensive fish departments in stores like Harrods, Selfridges and Harvey Nichols.
Jon is so friendly and a real character and when you speak to him you notice at once that he’s enthusiastic about all things fish, and when you ask him about the fish he has available you become aware that from his response that there’s nothing he and his people don’t know about the produce they sell.
The fish is always in the best of condition, and as far as I can see always from sustainable sources. He explained to me after I asked him about it that “we take environmental issues very seriously and are continually striving to reduce the negative impact on our beautiful world wherever possible”. I got the feeling that he could even tell you what boat the catch came from.
If it’s not in season or not at its best, he won’t sell it to you and you can clearly understand that he does not buy in more than he can sell, so be sure to get there early as he sells out incredibly fast.
There are many more pricey fishmongers that sell inferior quality produce so if it’s the finest quality and at a reasonable cost you’re after, you should pay Jon a visit he won’t disappoint you, plus in a couple of weeks time he is opening his first shop in Victoria Park, London, I will let you know exactly where and when soon, don’t worry residents of Westminster and Pimlico the market stall will still be open with Jon in charge.
Full marks all round from me!
Oxtail Soup
One of the much-loved soups of the Great British public, and memories of when the local butcher’s shop sold oxtails inexpensively.
This soup is one of our favourite soups and the one I always used in the hotels, for Mr. and Mrs. Finken at Lodge Hill as well as for lord and Lady Hanson.
To make this soup a real winner for a dinner party replace 1 pint of the stock with red wine and near the finish add 3 tablespoon of a good port.
Serves/Makes: 4
Prep-Time: 20 minutes
Cook-Time: 4 hours
You Will Need;
1 oxtail
2 carrots diced
1 turnip diced
1 onion diced
4 tablespoons dripping or oil
1 tablespoon seasoned flour
6, peppercorns
2 sprigs, fresh thyme
3 tablespoons parsley chopped finely
1 bay leaf
4 pints water or beef stock
Method:
Joint the oxtail and blanch it (put it into a saucepan with a pinch of salt, cover with cold water, and bring to the boil.
Strain off the water, put the joints into cold water for a minute, and then wipe them with a cloth.
Season the tablespoon of flour with salt and pepper, and coat the joints of oxtail with it, I find it best to place the seasoned flour into a plastic food bag and then add the oxtail and give it all a good shake.
Melt the dripping or oil in a saucepan, and brown the joints well, turning them over so that all sides are browned. Add the stock or water and bring to a boil, boil gently for about 30 minutes, skimming off the scum as it rises.
Tie up the peppercorns, thyme, bay leaf, and parsley in a piece of muslin.
Pour off any excess fat, add the herb and spice parcel and diced vegetables, season with salt & pepper and simmer for three and a half hours, then strain off the stock.
Set aside the pieces of oxtail, rub the vegetables through a sieve or you can use a blender, skim off any fat from the stock, and add the vegetable puree to it. Put in a saucepan; if the soup seems a little thin remove some of the soup let cool slightly and whisk in a tablespoon of flour whisk this into the simmering soup and let simmer until the flour has cooked in and thickened the soup, serve hot.
Scotch Broth
Traditionally Scotch broth is a bit of everything thrown into the pot and is quite a substantial soup. In bygone days, Scots would eat this as a main meal in modern times; many Scottish households still serve Scotch broth as a main meal of the day rather than a first course. Ingredients can be exchanged depending on your personal liking, it’s best made the day before to let the complete flavour to marinate through.
My granny Glen sometimes used to call it barley broth and always had a pan of broth on the go, I can even see in my mind the big black cast iron soup pan.
Even though a classic Scottish soup I think every household had their own recipe, this recipe is a blend of granny Glen’s and my mother’s.
I can remember being sent to the greengrocer for a fresh broth or soup mix this consisted of all the vegetable ingredients and a bunch of fresh thyme it changed almost weekly depending on what veg was available. This was in the days when the greengrocer and maybe his wife did some vegetable preparation and even boiled beetroots. Moreover, this was before convenience foods and supermarkets became popular.
Nowadays in the winter months, we make enough to last for a whole weeks worth of lunches and along with homemade wholemeal or crusty granary bread, it really sticks to your ribs, which is just what you want on a winter’s day. Oh, the barley we use isn’t pearl barley we think pot barley (see note) it is so much better with more flavour a creamier texture and very traditional in Scotland.
Serves/Makes: 10 to 12 servings
Prep-Time: 10 to 12 minutes
Cook-Time: 90 minutes or there about
You Will Need;
2 pounds of neck of mutton or lamb
4 ounces pot barley or if you must pearl barley, soaked overnight
3 ounces split green peas, (soaked overnight) or you can use fresh or frozen peas added near the end of cooking
2 tablespoons of cooking oil or to be more authentic beef dripping or lard
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
1 large leek, chopped
4 turnips, peeled and chopped
1 small Swede, peeled and chopped
3 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 small bunch of fresh thyme, strip the leaves from the stalks we only want the leaves
2 tablespoon, chopped parsley
1 small cabbage, this is optional, but we like to use a small January king
6 pints of water, you might need more to let the finished broth down if you think it is too thick
Method:
Heat over a medium flame heat the lard or cooking oil and add the chopped onion and leek, once softened not browned add the water and the lamb bring to a boil, and skim off any fat from the top. After boiling for about 30 minutes add the soaked barley and peas bring back to a boil reduce the heat and simmer for another 30 minutes add the remaining vegetables and thyme leaves and season to taste and cook a further 20 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. If used, remove the bone, strip off the meat, and return to the pan discard the bone, add the parsley as a garnish before serving.
Pot barley is different from pearl barley this is the whole grain is a good source of protein, fibre and niacin (vitamin B3), as well as the trace minerals calcium, magnesium, phosphorus and potassium. It wants soaking overnight or for at least eight hours, just cover with boiling water, and leave to soak drain the following day. The soaking makes the barley more eatable and cuts down the cooking time.
The Glens Tags: Soups, Broths, Chowders, Consommés, Meat & Vegetable, Barley, Pot Barley, Traditional, Granny Glen, Homemade, Winter Warmer, Classic, Scottish Recipes
Quote of the Day:
Commerce is the great civilizer. We exchange ideas when we exchange fabrics.
–Robert Green Ingersoll
Lancashire Pea and Ham Soup
Once again, delightful memories of childhood, this soup was a winter staple at our house and this recipe has been passed down for at least 4 generations.
There is a lot of history to pea soup and not just in Lancashire, The traditional English pea soup was made with dried peas, and its greeny-brown colour was so similar to the dense smog that dominated London in the winter (until as late as the 1960s), that the smog became known as a ‘pea-souper’. In Bleak House, Dickens referred to the fog as the ‘London Particular’, and the name has been used for both fog and soup ever since.
Dried peas are a healthy and nutritious low-cost vegetable. They make an excellent meal extender and when puréed, they form the base of many dishes from the traditional pea soup to the more unusual vegetable pâtés and fritters.
Soak and cook more dried peas than necessary. They can be refrigerated or frozen all set to serve as a vegetable or added to casseroles, pies, and soups. It is a little less trouble to make the soup with split peas, which have no skins, and here there is a selection of green or yellow. While there is no difference in the taste, the latter give the soup a pleasing golden colour.
Serves/Makes: 10 servings
Prep-Time: 10 minutes
Cook-Time: 2 hours
You Will Need;
1 pound, marrowfat peas (dried)
8 cups, ham stock, if at all possible homemade (see below)
2 ribs of celery, chopped
2 medium carrots, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
3 teaspoons, fresh thyme leaves (1 teaspoon dried)
½-teaspoon cracked black pepper
½-teaspoon sea salt
½ cup fresh parsley, chopped
2 cups diced ham, preferably from the ham hock you have just used to make the stock
Method:
Soak the peas as directed on the packet (or see notes) then in a large soup pan add the peas, water celery, carrots, onion, thyme, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil and boil for 3 minutes now reduce the heat to slow simmer cover the pan and cook 45 to 60 minutes until the peas are tender.
Add the parsley and simmer uncovered for about 45 minutes until thick now you can puree the peas in a blender or pass through a sieve or just leave as is if you like a chunky soup. Fine-tune the seasoning, add the diced ham, and serve with a swirl of cream or a sprinkling of chopped parsley on top.
A Few Notes about Dried Peas Soaking Dried Peas;
Overnight Method, Put 1 cup / 200grams / 7 ounces dried peas into a large bowl with 3 cups / 700ml / 1¼ pints tepid water. Do not add any salt.
Quick soak Method, Put 1 cup / 200grams / 7 ounces dried peas into a large saucepan with 3 cups / 700ml / 1¼ pints water. Bring to the boil and continue to boil for 2-3 minutes. Turn off heat. Cover pan and leave to stand for one hour.
DO NOT EAT RAW SOAKED PEAS
Cooking dried peas, on the stove drain the water from the soaked peas and move peas to a large saucepan. Cover with plenty of fresh water, cover and bring slowly to the boil and boil rapidly for 10 minutes then reduce the heat to a simmer cook for 40 to 50 minutes or until tender. The longer the soaking time, the shorter the cooking time. If necessary add salt during the last 5 minutes of cooking time.
In a slow cooker, proceed as above, adding to the slow cooker after boiling rapidly on the stove for 10 minutes.
In the microwave, soak 225g (½ lb) dried peas overnight. Drain peas then transfer to a 2 litre (3½ pt) glass bowl. Add sufficient boiling water to come 1.25cm (½") above peas. Cover and stand bowl on glass plate in case water boils over. Cook on full power for 30 minutes, checking water level after 20 minutes. Top up with boiling water if necessary. Keep covered and leave to stand for 10 minutes. 650-watt microwave.
Store dried peas at room temperature in a covered container for up to one year. Canned peas should be stored in a cool dry place and should be used within one year.
Soaked or cooked dried peas can be kept in the refrigerator for 2-3 days. Cooked dried peas can be kept in the freezer for up to 3 months.
Ham Stock
Ham stock is simple to make and it’s incredibly useful for enriching sauces and soups. Ham stock is very gelatinous and after being left in the fridge overnight, it will turn to meat jelly. Ooh scrumptious meat jellies.
Serves/Makes: 4 to 5 pints
Prep-Time: 10 minutes plus overnight soaking
Cook-Time: 2 hours 30 minutes
Tags: Stocks, Bouillons, Ham, Ham Hock
You Will Need;
1 ham hock, about 2 pounds (900 grams) in weight
6 pints water (3.5 litres)
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 onions, peeled and chopped
1 head of celery, washed and chopped
12 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
Method:
Do not whatsoever add salt it does not need it.
To start the stock, cover the ham hock with cold water and soak overnight.
Drain off the soaking water, and cover the ham hock with the measured cold water, bring to the boil and skim off any scum, then add the carrots, onions and celery, leave simmer gently (we call this ticking over) for about 30 minutes, then add the peppercorns and bay leaf, lightly simmer 2 hours until the ham is cooked through.
Watch it carefully; you do not want the stock to reduce too much, strain off the stock, Put the ham to one side, and discard the vegetables and flavourings the ham you can use foe soups, sandwiches and even salads for pea and ham soup you will need about 3 pints.
Roast Chicken Legs with Caramelised Onions & Thyme
This is a very tasty dish, one we obtained from the resident foodie at Abel and Cole they do have some nice recipes on the September recipe page just click on this link
Serves/Makes: 2
Prep-Time: 10 minutes
Cook-Time: 30 minutes
You Will Need;
2 chicken legs
50 grams unsalted butter
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
1 lemon, halved
10 grams fresh thyme
1 large or 2 small-medium onions, thinly sliced
½-teaspoon caster sugar
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method:
Preheat the oven to 220c
Place 1 tablespoon of the butter (we found it best to melt the butter) in a roasting dish, along with the garlic, lemon and a good bit of salt and pepper.
Pluck ½-teaspoon thyme leaves from the 10grams of thyme and set aside to add to the onions a bit later. Place the remaining thyme (stalks and all) in the roasting dish.
Add the chicken, squeeze the lemon juice over the chicken, and rub the thyme, butter, salt, pepper, and garlic into the skin.
Pop the crushed cloves under the skin above the thigh arrange evenly in the pan and place into the oven. Set the time for 10 minutes.
Melt the remaining butter in a frying pan until bubbly; add the onions, sugar, and a pinch of salt. Cook the onions, gently over medium-low heat for 20-30 minutes, until soft, gently golden, and sweet. Once finished, stir through the reserved thyme leaves.
When the timer goes off on the chicken, turn the heat down to 180C and cook for a further 20 minutes.
Place the chicken on plates. Spoon the onions on top or alongside the chicken and serve with mashed potatoes, roasted squash wedges or couscous and some broccoli or a tangle of lightly dressed rocket.
Whitewell Pheasant Casserole
When I first started work at the Whitewell Hotel in 1971(now known as the inn at Whitewell) under Chef George McGuire, I used to dread the start of the shooting season as it meant that I had to dress limitless brace of pheasant for this simple but wonderful and very popular dish.
I always find that casseroles and stews are improved the day after they are prepared and reheated, which makes this just what the doctor ordered for a dinner party seeing that everything apart from any vegetables and potatoes you might want to serve with it, is ready!
We like Potato Dauphinoise with this but it is simply mouth-watering with some good homemade warm crusty bread to sop up the juices.
Serves / Makes: six persons
Prep-Time: 20 minutes
Cook-Time: 2 hours
You Will Need;
- 2, pheasants, dressed and jointed
- 2, tablespoons beef dripping
- 1, large onion
- 1, large carrot
- 1, stick/rib of celery
- 1, bouquet garni, a parcel of thyme, parsley stalk and bay leaf, I like to wrap this up in a leek parcel
- 10 ounces, mushrooms, field if possible although we do use the meaty Portobello mushrooms
- 1 good pinch, Sea salt
- 1 good pinch, cracked black pepper
- 12 fluid ounces, red wine
Method:
- Preheat the oven to 350/f or gas mark 4.
- Chop the vegetables roughly.
- Heat the beef dripping in a heavy frying pan and brown the jointed pheasant remove from the pan and place in a casserole dish.
- Place the vegetables in the frying pan and cook for 2-3 minutes, add the red wine and bring to the boil.
- Pour the mixture over the pheasant, season add the bouquet garni and cover, cook in the oven for 1 to 1½ hours until tender, if you want the juices a little thicker just reduce on the stove top until it is reduced as you would like it. Serve hot.
The hotel is situated in the hamlet of Whitewell near Dunsop Bridge in the Forest of Bowland, and when we lived there, it was a very popular spot for them as wanted to fish on the best 5-mile stretch of the river Hodder. As well as those who just wanted to explore this most stunning part of Lancashire, this area is/was known as Little Switzerland and named so it is said by Queen Victoria.
In the 1300’s The Inn at Whitewell was just a small manor house, lived in by the keepers of the Royal forest. The Royal connection remains as the Inn forms part of the Duchy of Lancaster Estate.
Abel and Cole The Organic Source for London
Organic, Produce, London, Astrochef
We have been using Abel & Cole since the 31st of January 2008 and have yet to find a negative aspect of this so wonderful company who offer a good quality selection of fruit, vegetables, meats, fish, dairy products, bread, store cupboard items and deli items, not forgetting ethical cleaning bits and pieces
With our very first order we chose the mixed organic fruit and veg box at £14.80 and we still get it, it is now only £15.95 still extremely fantastic value considering the current prices for organic fruit and veg in the supermarkets in fact Abel and Cole are consistently lower in price that the leading supermarkets.
The delivery used to be free and it is only in the last 2 months that they have had to start asking for 99p yes a whole 99 pence for delivery and speaking about the delivery each area of London is given a delivery day ours is Wednesday and our delivery is always made before 8am, the driver knows that I am up very early (05:30) and Molly usually lets the driver in to the apartment block at about 06;30 on her way out.
I have just got to mention the receipt they send with your order not only a receipt but a recipe card, a newsletter and other relevant info.
You will find that when ordering you can choose from just one time deliveries, weekly, every 2 weeks or for just one item every 8 weeks in fact Abel and Cole go out of their way to accommodate your delivery wishes.
We have a regular delivery every three weeks of the mixed organic fruit and veg box, organic eggs and the organic chicken legs at around £3.50 for a pack of 2. The weekend before our delivery we go online to see the special offers and order the extras we want for the next week or two, we spend on average £25 to £50 pounds every 3 weeks for a good 2 to 3 weeks worth of meals. It is a great service for fresh produce and home delivery
You can also say what you like and dislike in the fruit, veg and salad boxes and if there is something you don’t like it won’t appear in your box, it will be replaced with something else, it would be nice to state what you would like but remember they can only put in what the farmer has supplied they won’t accept and the farmer won’t supply substandard produce so trust them they really do know what they are doing.
The website is very easy to use, and you can see a week in advance what will be in your box, so you can add any extras you need and plan your meals. You can also see exactly what it will cost. You can add in your holidays on the website as well so they know when you don’t need a delivery.
After a long wait they have a cookbook too It’s called ‘Cooking Outside the Box, The Abel and Cole Seasonal, Organic Cookbook’. You can order through their website or through amazon.co.uk
As a chef I believe that the fruit, veg and meats and fish that they supply can really inspire the whole family in the kitchen and being a chef I just have a thing about the reality that everything supplied is in its own season just as it should be. Abel and Cole demonstrate you can get first-class, traditional service from an internet based company.
To conclude the quality of produce is a cut above the supermarkets organic ranges, and thus far it really works out slightly more easy on the pocket.This is a company that knows how to care for its patrons and I can’t commend it highly enough.

Our Diminutive Balcony Garden
This year we have the same Honeysuckle which was planted in 2006 along with the variegated Ivy both are doing very well. One tub still contains the Geraniums that Maureen planted in 2006 and in one of the large tubs is some mint. We are now growing our own salad leaves and radish and if we just had a bit more room we would be trying other things as well, but with the room we have got we are very satisfied with what we have been growing.
Japanese Honeysuckle Prolific (Lonicera Japonica Halls Prolific)
As its name suggests, this is an especially vigorous and free-flowering variety with masses of sweetly scented, tubular flowers from April to August, opening pure white and ageing to yellow. The handsome, dark green leaves are retained all year and in hot summers, the flowers may be followed by small purple-black berries. It looks lovely scrambling over an old boundary wall or growing through a robust, mature tree, or in our case up the wall and trellis work
Garden care: Cut back established plants after flowering, removing a third of the flowering shoots. Apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted compost or manure around the base of the plant in early spring.
Ivy Common (Hedera Helix Oro Di Bogliasco)
A handsome ivy with lustrous, three-lobed, dark green leaves splashed with golden yellow. It is a self-clinging, evergreen climber suitable for brightening or covering a shady wall or as groundcover, although it will lose its variegation if grown in deep shade. Mature plants bear spherical green flowers in autumn.
Garden care: Keep moist during the winter months. Plants may be pruned at any time of the year to keep within bounds.
Tomato and salad Crop This Year
This year we are using for our large toms a variety called Turbo Elegance which is a grafted stock, they arrived from Dobies in April as plug plants and are doing very well.
A vigorous growing variety, producing good trusses of standard size tomatoes of fine colour and delicious flavour.
As well as Tomato Tumbler F1 Plants
This trailing British bred variety is ideal for hanging baskets and containers on the patio, producing up to 4kg (9 lb) of delicious fruit in a single season. This amazing tomato tumbler can be sown later than most and harvested before others are available. Bred for patio pots and hanging baskets, the plants cascade over the sides. We did start with three plants but I broke one planting out and a gust of wind one day sent the second plant flying onto the balcony floor we couldn’t save it so we only have the one plant up on the trellis we have had 750 grams off of it so far so not too bad really.
Our salad leaves have been marvellous we have been harvesting them on a daily basis for 7 weeks now and they include, Rocket (Arugula) mixed, mixed spicy salad leaves, salad bowl red and green mixed, and radish French breakfast 3. All these are from Mr. Fothergill’s collection and the salads are all from the collection of Mr. Fothergill’s seed mats a superb way to sow your seeds. Today we have just sown some Lambs lettuce, Mizuna, Mustard Oriental red, Lettuce Salad bowl mixed and Watercress Aqua.
The Glens Tags: Astrochef, Lancashire, Molly, Salad Leaves, Lambs Lettuce, Mizuna, Land Cress, Water Cress, Mustard, Oriental, Rocket, Arugula, Radish, Tomatoes, Elegance, Tumbling Tom
Cheese and Onion Pie
Cheese and onion are old acquaintances and were made to go together. This tasty savoury pie is easy to make with shop bought sheets of puff pastry, and is great for lunch, or for dinner with a large tossed salad. It is also one of our favourites
Serves: 2 to 4
Time: About 60 minutes if you want to make a good job of it.
- 2, tablespoons vegetable oil
- 2, large onions, chopped
- 12, ounces grated Cheshire cheese, you can use Cheddar or Lancashire
- 1, tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
- 1, teaspoon prepared English mustard
- 2, teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
- 2, eggs, beaten separately
- 2 good pinches of salt and pepper
- 2, sheets puff pastry
Method:
- Line an oven tray with baking paper and set aside. Heat the vegetable oil in a large frying pan / skillet and sauté the onions over medium heat for 5- 7 minutes, or until golden and soft.
Transfer to a bowl and allow to cool for 10 minutes, before adding the cheese, parsley, mustard and Worcestershire sauce.
Mix well, then add 1 beaten egg to the bowl, with salt and pepper to your taste, and mix well again.
Using a cake pan or dinner plate as a guide, cut each sheet of pastry into a 9 inch (23 cm) circle.
Lay one sheet of pastry on the prepared baking tray.
Place a large spoonful of the cheese mixture over the pastry base, piling it higher in the middle, and leave a narrow border around the edge.
Lightly brush the border with some of the second beaten egg.
Place the remaining sheet of pastry over the filling, stretching lightly if necessary to neatly fit the bottom sheet.
Press and seal the edges well.
Brush the top with the remaining beaten egg, and cut two slits in the top to allow the steam to escape.
Bake in the oven for 10 minutes, before reducing the heat to 350F (180C).
Cook a further 20-25 minutes or until pastry is crisp and golden brown.
Note;
For my American family and friends you can purchase real British cheese at iGourmet/British Cheeses why not try them.